BitterSweet

Texas is no stranger to strong spirits, boasting nearly 200 distilleries statewide, with a clear penchant for whiskey, tequila, and vodka, in that order. Gin isn’t one I initially associate with the Lone Star State, but here in Dripping Springs, Waterloo Gin has planted their flag, extracting the most distinctly Texan brew being bottled today. Juniper is only half of the equation.

What Makes Gin, Gin?

Originally used medicinally to treat everything from indigestion to gout, scurvy, and malaria, the key ingredient granting it these supposedly restorative properties was, and still is, juniper. The name itself is derived from the Dutch word jenever and/or French genièvre, both of which mean “juniper.” It must have a predominant juniper flavor to qualify as gin, and certain styles (like London Dry) lean much more heavily into these evergreen berries.

For ages, I thought I didn’t like gin, because this was the only type I had known. Aggressively resinous, piney, and grassy, it struck me as dilute floor polish mixed with liquefied Christmas trees. To each their own, of course, as this has been the uncontested winning option for centuries, with no sign of flagging in popularity.

Proudly American Gin

Waterloo Gin branched off of Treaty Oak Distillery, gaining roots of its own as the first official brand of gin made in Texas, surprisingly not long ago in 2009. Theirs is a proudly American style, less juniper-forward, sourcing botanicals native to Texas. That means that despite being bottled at 94 proof, it’s remarkably smooth, balanced, and easy to drink. The brand’s flagship Waterloo No. 9 Gin uses nine botanicals, as you may have guessed, including but not limited to lavender, grapefruit, and pecan, all locally sourced. This was the first gin I genuinely enjoyed drinking straight, and even more so when mixed into cocktails.

Neutral Base Spirits, Full-Flavored Results

Limestone-filtered spring water is another key to their success, crafting the cleanest, purest base spirit distilled from corn, which could just as well be sold as upper shelf vodka before infusion. Made in small batches and blended for consistency, they’ve just begun their push further afield for greater distribution in stores across the US. Though the production floor isn’t open to visitors, I was granted a private peek behind the scenes to see how it all happens. Fortunately, the mercantile across the plaza is ready already a destination for all, but more on that in a minute.

The Whiskey of Gin

What immediately captured my attention, and imagination, is their Barrel-Aged Gin. Not just taking a page from whiskey-making but honoring the traditional process, this is what happens when you take the classic No. 9 and age it for two years in new American white oak barrels. Even after a relatively short rest, the transformation is astounding. Gently smokey, honeyed, and sparking with warm spices, it’s unlike any gin or whiskey I’ve ever had, in the best way possible. There’s an uncanny sweetness to it, though absolutely no sugar is involved.

More In Store

Not to tease, but for the real gin and whiskey aficionados, it would serve you well to stay tuned to what Waterloo is working on next. I had the privilege of trying limited runs of gin aged for 4 and 12 years, respectively, that absolutely defy all expectations. Despite being wildly high proof, they’re impossibly smooth sippers. Somehow, notes of vanilla, custard, nutmeg, and mace develop over all those years, tasting almost like eggnog, without a drop of cream or eggs. Incredible sacrifices must be made to reach this level; being stored in an hot rickhouse (where the barrels are kept) without climate control means that aging happens at a faster rate than industry standard, but so does evaporation. By the time you hit the 12th year, very little remains. If these bottles do ever hit the market, expect to pay dearly, because they would be worth every cent.

For a more attainable luxury, don’t forget about the latest addition to the lineup, Prickly Pear & Rose Gin which joined the standard trio in 2025, perfect for anyone craving a lighter touch. Hibiscus, rose, and prickly pear are added to the essential base to create a pink elixir that’s more than just a pretty face. Bright, fruity, and floral, it challenges the status quo of traditional gin with a gentle touch.

New Old Fashioned

The Old Fashioned had been my go-to drink since I first started hitting the bar. The version being served at the mercantile bar here, anchored by Treaty Oak, takes the spirit-forward body, aromatic bitters, the faint glow of citrus, and reframes it through the lens of Waterloo Barrel Aged Gin. Swapping bourbon for this two-year-matured expression doesn’t lighten the drink so much as sharpen it. The gin’s toffee hue, gentle smoke, and spiced depth slip seamlessly into place, creating a cocktail that lands somewhere between the familiarity of whiskey and the brightness of botanicals. An orange twist brings the whole thing into focus, amplifying the gin’s soft vanilla and toasted pecan notes.

The Gin-uine Article

Gin has never been just one thing. It was my mistake to underestimate the category so severely for all this time. Evolving from the crisp austerity of London Dry to the soft, citrus-forward American styles, each bottle reflects the landscape, culture, and imagination of its makers. Waterloo takes this idea and runs with it, rooting their approach in staunchly Texan sensibilities. This new generation of gins don’t take themselves too seriously, and yet turn out serious winners left and right, expanding what the category can be. Waterloo stands as living proof that gin is still evolving, and Texas has something entirely its own to say about it.

Continue reading “Gin is In” →